Darkness and light change so quickly in this country, it is like trying to predict how many waves will crash along an ocean shore in a minute. The light changes many times in that minute, and, when it's bright, you'd better enjoy it, because the darkness swallows it whole and covers everything.
We left Dolgellau in grey rain, mist obscuring the surrounding peaks. We had decided to push south to Aberystwyth, then doing the "mid Wales" drive described in our Lonely Planet book. After previous driving 
attempts in good weather, we were concerned about getting lost in the grey mists.
attempts in good weather, we were concerned about getting lost in the grey mists.Instead, we had our best driving day to date, rally-style through the high mountains on our left and rolling farms to the right. We transitionned quickly, and found Aberystwyth easily, before noon. We scored accommodations in a slightly funky sea-side hotel and watched the ocean roll. Then, we recovered our car and set off on the tour. The driving was amazing through narrow winding roads and villages and farms that evoke the stereotypical images of a pa
storal Britain still clinging to life in the modern gloom. First stop, in and out of sunshine, was the so-called Devil's Bridge. We didn't climb down due to our stiff joints from Snowdon, but we admired the lovely dark woods.
storal Britain still clinging to life in the modern gloom. First stop, in and out of sunshine, was the so-called Devil's Bridge. We didn't climb down due to our stiff joints from Snowdon, but we admired the lovely dark woods.Next stop was Ynbyty Cynfyn, a lovely country church tucked into a small round 
space engulfed by a sheep farm, nestled at bottom of a damp hill. What makes this setting more appealing is the presence of a ring of bronze-age standing stones, which appear only when you concentrate, when you look really hard : they are embedded in the stone fence of the churchyard, keeping the dead in and the living out, but peering into the darkness.
space engulfed by a sheep farm, nestled at bottom of a damp hill. What makes this setting more appealing is the presence of a ring of bronze-age standing stones, which appear only when you concentrate, when you look really hard : they are embedded in the stone fence of the churchyard, keeping the dead in and the living out, but peering into the darkness.Our final stint was at Bwich Nant yr Arian, a bird sanctuary in the damp woods of mid Wales. The stars of the sky are the endangered red kite, a beautiful flyer almost eradicated as vermin a short time ago, no
w making a determined come back. These are large birds of prey, or so we thought, sailing effortlessly on the invisible currents of air. They dove and wheeled crazily, and swooped to get meat set out by the staff for the 3 o'clock feeding. At least 60 of the graceful red and brown creatures enchanted us. Later, we learned just how delicate they are: with wing spans approaching 5 feet, they have the appearance of a winged killer. But the truth is that they are all wings and feathers. They weigh only 2 pounds and eat nothing but carrion. They aren't strong enough to kill anything larger than a small mouse. But they are among the most amazing flyers in the skies, and we thrilled to the air show.
w making a determined come back. These are large birds of prey, or so we thought, sailing effortlessly on the invisible currents of air. They dove and wheeled crazily, and swooped to get meat set out by the staff for the 3 o'clock feeding. At least 60 of the graceful red and brown creatures enchanted us. Later, we learned just how delicate they are: with wing spans approaching 5 feet, they have the appearance of a winged killer. But the truth is that they are all wings and feathers. They weigh only 2 pounds and eat nothing but carrion. They aren't strong enough to kill anything larger than a small mouse. But they are among the most amazing flyers in the skies, and we thrilled to the air show.We made our way back to Aberystwyth in brilliant sunshine and, despite being caught in a rare traffic jam, made our way to the hotel without incident. We enjoyed tea and coffee in our room watching young p
eople surfing in the sunshine. Yes, I wrote "surfing in the sunshine" .... in Wales!!Then, the day ended in cold, silent darkness because of bad communication and careless misunderstanding. Light to darkness in the blink of an eye.
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