DAY 3 THURS. JUNE 2 MANCHESTER - LIVERPOOL

They are so close on a map, it almost looks like you could walk from one to the other. But the reality is that we rented a car and had to navigate still largely jet-lagged, a toxic combination.

We called from our hotel to Manchester Airport and were assured by the cabbie that finding the Europecar Rental would be easy: we got lost in the terminal. Then, we were assured by the rental agent that it was "dead easy" to find the way to Liverpool: we got lost. Last night, the girl at the Britannia Adelphi hotel in Liverpool said it would be easy to find the hotel after travelling on the motorway from Manchester: we got VERY lost. And, yet, we made it, although our stress levels were through the roof. Lesson re-learned: nothing involving travel in Britain is easy.

Our car, a Vauxhall Astra, is small and well appointed, but it handles like a tank. It drives "heavy" and I found myself fighting it. Hopefully, I'll get used to it: I always do.

The Britannia Adelphi is an old hotel of past magnificence. It is truly beautiful on the outside, but dated and tired on the inside. Very much like Liverpool.

Admitedly, our first reaction to Liverpool was not positive. The weather was dull grey, the city difficult to navigate, the buildings dowdy, and the hotel past its prime. But then we walked down to the Albert Docks and were impressed by the renewal of the vast Victorian warehouses and docklands. Clearly, Liverpool will never again be what it once was, a thriving, wealthy, cosmopolitan seaport. In a true sense, it was, at one time, a world city. Its glory has faded, but there is renewal. Sadly, the renewal seems to be confined to the waterfront. The rest of the town leaves me nostaglic for Detroit.

The highlight was the Beatles Experience, and audio-visual chronicle of the Beatles' early years and their rise to fame and their ultimate demise. For true Beatles fans, this is a pilgrimmage, worth of reverence. The museum was excellent, and the re-creation of the original Cavern Club was moving: rather like seeing a holy site for devout Christians. We spent 2 wonderful hours there. Then, we regained the town and visited Matthew Street, site of the original Cavern Club, now an ugly modern parking garage, and the new Cavern Club just down the street, a faithful recreation of the original. What a vibrant, creative place Liverpool was fifty years ago. A city on its way down found an outlet for its frustration. Perhaps it can do so again.

The weather turned sunny and warm when we left the Docks, and, somehow, the city looked ... well, not so much beautiful as less ugly. We returned to our hotel to a free English dinner ( leathery roast pork, watery vegetables, nice deserts ) and FREE drinks ( ! ) for an hour. All we had to do was watch the faithful play bingo with all the intensity and concentration of formula 1 race drivers. I felt the presence of my old grandad as the numbers were called out in the old British bingo cadence ( "two and six, twenty-six" ) .... lovely !!