DAY 18 FRI. JUNE 17 CARDIFF

We dodged raindrops and saw Cardiff's highlights. The magnificent Millennium Centre, a concert hall/opera house that Toronto should have built stood on the reclaimed land of Cardiff Bay next door to the Senadd or National Assembly. We passed a wonderful time with our guide Keith and spoke of many things, which I will relate later.

From there to the magnificent Millennium Stadium, the spiritual home of Welsh rugby. Rugby is to Wales what hockey is to Canada, and I found the hair on the back of my neck standing up as we walked down the tunnel from the "dragon's lair" or locker room onto the pitch, looking up at the monstrous stadium and its retractable roof. Absolutely fantastic !

Then to Cardiff Castle where we saw the strange opulence of the Bute family, at one time the richest in the world. The Butes made their vast fortune on coal, and Cardiff was the world's largest coal port. The Butes built Cardiff into a handsome, profitable city, but also their personal fiefdom. The Butes owned the ancient castle, site of a Roman fort and a Norman keep, and turned it into a Victorian fantasy land, a prototype for Disneyland. I didn't know what to make of it and was actually a little glad to leave.

Back to our visit to the Senadd and our talk with Keith. He is a well-spoken man, trained to give the "patter" of the place to tourists. Perhaps it was just our good luck to catch him in the early tourist season on such a rainy day, but we had him all to ourselves. Our discussion left the rehearsed patter and we shared common concerns of Welsh and Canadian politics. I came away greatly energized by the talk. I learned that Wales is indeed a nation unto itself. It has only recently achieved a degree of political autonomy. Tony Blair promised home rule, and delivered. The National Assembly was born with very little to to and completely beholden to Westminster. But, over the years, the National Assembly has gained complete authority in certain jurisdictions, such as education, health and roads, but still depends on Westminster for revenue. But that is due to change soon. I offered my opinion that Wales is a Quebec in waiting, and that Britain is gradually devolving into a federation like Canada. Keith found that an interesting proposition. He doubted that Wales would ever wish for complete independence, like Quebec wants and like the Scots are talking about, but certainly a more devolved system might be palatable. His opinion was echoed by our B and B host, Mr. Church, who stated quite firmly that Wales would never be independent from Britain. Time will tell in all cases.

Our last pub meal in Wales was, fittingly, at a pub called the Owyn Glyndwr. Our last day in Wales. Tomorrow, off to the "foreign" land of England, and reunions with family .... provided we can navigate this last long stretch. Here's hoping !!